Textile Detox – The best decision for your skin and your health

When I saw a video some time ago that blamed Lululemon leggings for infertility and other physical ailments, my light-heartedness on the subject began to fade. Up until then I had been completely satisfied with my perfectly fitting Lululemon leggings and couldn't imagine ever wearing anything else for sport. The depiction in this video was of course a little sensationalist and exaggerated and it is not about Lululemon as a brand, but rather about synthetic materials such as polyester, which sportswear is often made of. The truth is: harmful substances that come into contact with your skin are also absorbed to a large extent, especially when the clothing is so tight-fitting. So I started to delve deeper into the subject and find out about different materials and what effects they can have on our health.

The skin mirrors what touches it – our body’s largest organ

We have direct contact with our environment through our skin. It protects us from heat, light, injuries and infections. Our body temperature is regulated by sweating. The skin is the largest organ of the human body and plays a central role in the defence against harmful substances. But what many people don't realise is that the skin is permeable to the substances it comes into contact with. Absorption takes place via the fine pores and can lead to pollutants and toxins entering the bloodstream directly.
Prof. Dr Jörg Spitz emphasised in his lecture ‘Vitamin D - Hype or Hope’ on 20 February 2018: ‘Everything we put on our skin is absorbed.’ He went on to say that you shouldn't use any cosmetics that you wouldn't be prepared to eat with a spoon, as all ingredients ultimately end up in the body.¹ What we apply to our skin and what it comes into contact with therefore has a direct impact on our health.

Toxins in our clothing and their effects

Clothing, which is actually intended to protect us from environmental influences, can therefore also be a burden on our health. Various harmful substances end up in clothing and the environment during cultivation or production or remain as residues after processing. I would like to give you an understandable insight and at the same time keep it as brief as possible, as this is a very complex and comprehensive topic. The following is a list of some of the important toxins that occur, not a complete list of all of them.

Microplastics

Microplastics are tiny particles that are released by the abrasion of synthetic fibres such as polyester or nylon. Abrasion already occurs when we wear the clothing or when we wash it. The microplastics end up in the groundwater and ultimately in our food chain and therefore also in our bodies, where they can trigger inflammation and impair cell function. Microplastics act like a sponge for pollutants in the environment and attract pesticides, heavy metals and organic pollutants, among other things. The bound pollutants can then be released in the body and act as endocrine disruptors, for example on the hormone system. Endocrine disruptors are substances that disrupt the hormone system by mimicking natural hormones. Microplastics can also act as endocrine disruptors themselves: many plastics contain plasticisers (phthalates) or bisphenol A (BPA), which are also known as xenoestrogens and disrupt the hormone balance in the body. Xenoestrogens are endocrine disruptors that act like oestrogen.

Heavy metals

Heavy metals such as lead, cadmium and antimony are mainly used in textile dyeing and finishing. Heavy metals are highly toxic and can damage the nervous system, burden the kidneys and liver or increase the risk of chronic diseases such as cancer. Some heavy metals, such as cadmium, also act as endocrine disruptors.

Pesticides

Pesticides such as glyphosate are frequently used in the cultivation of conventional cotton. Many pesticides also act as xenoestrogens. Pesticides can also put a strain on the liver and weaken the immune system.

Chlorine bleaching

Chlorine is often used to lighten textiles. This produces dioxins as toxic by-products. They are highly carcinogenic and can weaken the immune system.

Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is used to make fabrics crease-resistant, water-repellent and colourfast. Formaldehyde irritates the skin and, when released into the air, also irritates the respiratory tract. It is also classified as carcinogenic and harmful to the unborn child.

Per- and polyfluorinated chemicals (PFAS)

PFAS are also known as ‘forever chemicals’ as they are extremely long-lasting in the environment. They are used in the textile industry to make clothing water, dirt and grease repellent. PFAS are mainly found in outdoor clothing that is labelled as ‘water-repellent’. They also act as endocrine disruptors and are carcinogenic.

Azo dyes

Azo dyes are used to dye clothing in particularly strong and bright colours. Some azo dyes can release carcinogenic amines. They can also irritate the skin and have hormonal effects.

Fibres and materials in detail

Every item of clothing has a material or care label with the exact composition of the material. Far too rarely does this small print influence our purchasing decisions. Each material has its own unique properties, advantages and disadvantages. In the following sections, I would like to shed some light on the various fibres and materials.

Natural fibres

Natural fibres are materials that are obtained directly from plant or animal sources and are biodegradable in their original form. They are the oldest textile raw materials known to mankind and have many impressive properties. But not all natural fibres are the same: cultivation and processing can make a big difference.

Cotton, obtained from the seed hairs of the cotton plant, is one of the most popular fibres in the world. It is soft, breathable, absorbent and versatile.
Conventional cotton is often grown using pesticides, herbicides, chemical fertilisers and genetically modified seeds. Numerous chemicals, such as bleaching agents and synthetic dyes, which often contain heavy metals and other toxins, are also used in the further processing of the raw material. The various chemicals used in cultivation and processing can not only pollute the environment, but also leave residues on the fibre that can enter the body through the skin.
Organic cotton, on the other hand, uses natural cultivation methods such as crop rotation and organic fertilisers. This not only reduces the impact on soil and groundwater, but also improves the working conditions of farmers.
The term ‘organic’ initially only refers to cultivation. The further industrial processing steps are regulated by various standards, with the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) being the most important and strictest. According to this standard, no chlorine bleach, plasticisers or formaldehyde are permitted for processing.

Linen is made from the fibres of the flax plant and is one of the oldest and most sustainable textile fibres in the world. Its high breathability and cooling effect make it a popular fibre for summer clothing.
There are also differences between conventional and organic linen production, although conventional linen is also grown without the intensive use of pesticides and fertilisers, as the flax plant is naturally robust. Nevertheless, chemical substances such as synthetic bleaching agents or softeners can be used during processing, which leave residues on the material and pollute the environment.

Wool is characterised by its excellent thermo-regulating properties: It keeps you warm in winter and cools you down in summer. There are also differences in wool, ranging from animal husbandry to processing.
In conventional sheep farming, animals are often not kept in a species-appropriate manner and various pesticides are used to combat parasites. In addition, a common procedure to prevent infestation with fly maggots is so-called ‘mulesing’, in which the skin around the tail is removed without anaesthetic. When wool is sold, it is explicitly stated whether it is ‘mulesing-free’.
Organic wool comes from animals from species-appropriate husbandry, which is guaranteed by certifications such as kbT (controlled organic animal husbandry). The wool is processed according to strict guidelines.

Silk is obtained from the cocoons of the silkworm and is characterised by its smooth, shiny surface. There are also differences in silk depending on the production method.
Apart from the chemicals used in the production process of conventional silk, the ethical aspect should be emphasised above all: In order to obtain the threads intact, the silkworms are usually killed. Bio-Seide, die auch als “gewaltfreie Seide” bezeichnet wird, wird nach ökologischen und ethischen Standards produziert. Bevor die Fäden weiterverarbeitet werden, dürfen die Raupen ihren Kokon verlassen.

Synthetic fibres

Synthetic fibres are a comparatively recent achievement in the textile industry. They are produced entirely artificially from petrochemical raw materials such as crude oil, natural gas or coal. The development of synthetic fibres began in the early 20th century, with nylon being the first synthetic fibre to be launched on the market in 1935. A common feature of synthetic fibres is their high durability and dimensional stability. The fabrics are often water-repellent, easy to dye and crease-resistant. Some problematic chemicals are released during the energy-intensive production process and another major problem is microplastics, which can be released through abrasion.

Due to its strengths such as quick drying and shape retention, polyester is mainly used in sports and outdoor clothing and in technical textiles. The fibre is not breathable, which can lead to heat build-up on the skin when worn, which can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. Polyester is obtained from crude oil and produced in a high-energy process by polycondensation.

Nylon was initially used primarily for hosiery and parachutes and is now also used in sportswear and outdoor equipment as well as many everyday products. The fibre is particularly tear-resistant and is characterised by high elasticity. Nylon is also produced using energy-intensive polycondensation, which produces climate-damaging gases such as nitrous oxide (N₂O) as a by-product.

Polyacrylic (PAN) is often used as a substitute for wool and is mainly used in jumpers, winter clothing and blankets. It is a light, warming fibre. Polyacrylic is made from acrylonitrile, which produces harmful intermediate products.

Elastane, also known as spandex or under the brand name Lycra, is known for its extreme stretch and dimensional stability. The fibre is rarely used on its own, but is combined with various other fibres, with a spandex content of 2-3% already providing significantly more stretch. Elastane can be found in sportswear, swimwear, shapewear and elasticated fabrics of all kinds. The production of elastane is chemically complex and is based on the synthesis of polyurethane, which is obtained from crude oil.

Regenerated fibres (cellulose fibres)

Regenerated fibres are obtained from natural raw materials such as wood or bamboo, which contain cellulose. This is then chemically processed to produce spinnable fibres. Cellulose fibres therefore represent a bridge between natural and man-made fibres. The fibres offer a soft, often silky texture and good breathability. The ecological and health effects of their production and processing should not be underestimated, as they are often contaminated with chemicals. The best-known cellulose fibres include viscose, lyocell, modal and ecovero.

Viscose is made from cellulose, usually from wood. The production process is chemically intensive and involves considerable environmental pollution. Carbon disulphide is used in processing, which is a highly toxic solvent that poses a risk to production workers and the environment. Residues can remain in the fibre and cause skin irritation. Viscose is also often bleached with chlorine, which can release harmful by-products such as dioxins.

Modal is a further development of viscose and is also made from cellulose, usually from beech wood. The fibre is characterised by its softness, elasticity and high moisture absorption. It is often used for underwear and leisurewear. Modal is produced in a similar chemical process to viscose, but with improved processes that cause less environmental pollution. Here too, residues of chemicals such as caustic soda or bleaching agents can occur, but in smaller quantities than with conventional viscose. Lenzing produces a particularly sustainable variant under the name Lenzing Modal™, which is made from wood from certified sustainable forestry.

ECOVERO™ is a brand of the Lenzing company and stands for a particularly environmentally friendly version of viscose. The cellulose comes from certified, sustainably managed forests, and production is carried out with significantly lower emissions and water consumption compared to conventional viscose production. Thanks to strict environmental standards and a closed production cycle, ECOVERO™ is free from most of the problematic chemicals that occur with conventional viscose. Nevertheless, as with all cellulose fibres, chemicals can be added during the final processing stage.

Lyocell is a modern cellulose fibre that is a more environmentally friendly alternative to viscose. It is produced in a closed cycle in which the solvent is almost completely recycled. Lyocell is also known under the brand name Tencel™ from the company Lenzing, which adheres to particularly strict environmental and social standards. The fibres are characterised by their dimensional stability, robustness, breathability and pleasant wearing comfort. Lyocell is often used for underwear, sportswear and outerwear.
Compared to other cellulose fibres such as viscose, lyocell is considered to be low in harmful substances as no highly toxic chemicals such as carbon disulphide are used. Nevertheless, harmful chemicals can be added in downstream processing steps, such as dyeing or textile finishing. Clothing made from Lyocell that is certified according to strict standards such as GOTS ensures high quality.

Blended fibres

Blended fibres are created by combining different types of fibres in order to optimise their individual properties. Natural and synthetic fibres are often combined, such as cotton and polyester, or different synthetic fibres such as polyester and elastane.
One disadvantage of blended fibres is their environmental footprint: they are difficult to recycle as the fibres cannot usually be easily separated from each other. There are also the aforementioned disadvantages of synthetic fibres, such as the release of microplastics.

Certifications and standards

As briefly outlined above, there are various certifications and standards that guarantee a certain quality of textiles. As you now know, numerous chemicals that are harmful to us can still get into the fibres and the environment during further processing steps. I would like to present some important standards below.

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)

GOTS is the world's strictest textile processing standard for organic fibres. It sets requirements along the entire textile supply chain, whereby end products such as yarns, fabrics, clothing, home textiles and personal care products can receive GOTS certification.² At least 70% of the fibres must come from controlled organic agriculture or animal husbandry (organic or certified organic) and then carry the GOTS certification ‘made with organic’. To be allowed to carry the ‘organic’ label, a textile product must contain at least 95% organic fibres of plant origin (cotton, linen, hemp) or animal origin (wool, silk, cashmere). The end products are GMO-free and free from toxic chemicals.³

IVN BEST (International Association of the Natural Textile Industry)

The IVN, which is one of the four co-founders of GOTS, sets even stricter standards with its BEST standard than GOTS, which is primarily known in Europe. Only natural fibres from controlled organic cultivation (kbA) are permitted.⁴ The criteria for chemicals and auxiliaries are very restrictive.

Öko-Tex Standard 100

The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 focuses on testing the end product for harmful substances. Every component - from the thread to the buttons to the label - is tested for harmful substances. In total, over 1,000 harmful substances are tested for. ⁵ Four product classes with different limit values are differentiated during testing, depending on how intensive skin contact with the end product will be and how sensitive the skin is. Baby clothing is in product class 1 and must fulfil the highest requirements. ⁶

Conclusion: The dose makes the poison

But what is actually so bad about the toxins listed? A little bit of poison goes a long way and is perfectly normal!
First of all, what is normal? Not so long ago, when there were no synthetic fibres or mass production of textiles, humanity was much less exposed to the pollutants mentioned. It is also a fact that humanity is becoming increasingly infertile and civilisation diseases are on the rise. It's not that the one pair of Lululemon leggings we wear for sport makes us ill, it's that the dose makes the poison. The detoxification capacity of each person is individual and depends on many factors. Everyone has an individual barrel that overflows at some point. The consequences of exposure to environmental toxins and toxins do not manifest themselves as a specific symptom, but have complex effects on the entire metabolism and organism.
Of course, you shouldn't panic and throw away your entire wardrobe, but perhaps your newly acquired knowledge will influence your next purchasing decisions or even your sense of smell: the ‘sheepy’ smelling wool could suddenly be pleasant after all. And if the GOTS-certified wool or cotton is too expensive for you, then conventional wool or cotton, which you can also buy from the usual mainstream chains, is healthier for your body than polyester clothing. Reading the small print on the care label can be well worth it!

References: